The dry separation toilet in the camper: Why it is the best solution - including construction instructions
Anyone who converts their vehicle into a camper will sooner or later be faced with a fundamental question: Where is the human business going? Chemical toilets, with their blue additives and unpleasant emptying process, have long been the standard solution. But more and more campers are discovering a low-odor, environmentally friendly and surprisingly simple alternative: the dry separation toilet. In this article you will find out how it works, what advantages it offers - and how you can build one yourself with a manageable amount of effort.
What is a dry separation toilet at all?
The principle is simple but ingenious: urine and solids are collected separately before they can mix. It is precisely this mixing that is the main reason for unpleasant odors in conventional camping toilets. Urine alone hardly smells as long as it is fresh. Solids, on the other hand, only develop that typical “toilet smell” when combined with moisture and without oxygen supply. If both components are kept separate, it remains surprisingly odorless.
The heart of every dry separation toilet is the so-called urine separator - an insert in the front area of the seat that drains the urine into a separate canister or tank. The solids fall through a larger opening behind it into a bucket or container equipped with a dry substrate such as bark mulch, coconut fiber, sawdust or litter. This substrate binds moisture and accelerates composting without the need for an active decomposition process in the vehicle itself - the compost heap at home will do that later.
The advantages over the chemical toilet
The most obvious advantage is the absence of chemicals. Classic camping toilets require sanitary fluid to neutralize odors and chemically treat the feces in the tank. These substances are not only a recurring cost factor, but also have to be disposed of professionally - not every motorhome parking space offers a suitable disposal station for this.
This is completely eliminated with the dry separation toilet. The urine canister can be easily emptied in any normal toilet or even in nature (far away from bodies of water), as untreated urine is largely harmless. The solids in the compost container have to be emptied much less often - depending on the intensity of use, changing it every one to two weeks is enough, as no water or chemicals increase the volume.
In addition: dry separation toilets do not require a water connection or flushing. This saves valuable fresh water supplies - a real argument, especially for self-sufficient sites without a water supply. Weight also plays a role: a self-made system often weighs less than a filled chemical toilet cassette tank.
What you need to build yourself
The good news: A functioning dry separation toilet can be built in a weekend with basic tools and a few materials. You need:
- A urine separator (made of plastic, available cheaply in specialist shops or online)
- A sturdy bucket with a lid for the solids, ideally 10-20 liter capacity
- A canister or a bottle with a hose connection for the urine
- Multiplex or screen printing panels (at least 12 mm thick) for that Housing
- A toilet seat with a lid that fits the housing dimensions
- Silicone or wood glue to seal the seams
- Screws, angles and, if necessary, edge tape
- Optional: a small 12-volt fan for active ventilation
- Substrate such as coconut humus, wood shavings or bark mulch
Construction instructions step by step
- Take measurements and plan. First, determine the space available in your camper. A typical dry separation toilet requires a floor space of around 35 x 40 cm and a height of 35-40 cm so that the solids container can be comfortably accommodated. Sketch the housing as a simple box with a removable or hinged lid.
- Cut the housing. Cut the side walls, the floor and the top panel from the multiplex panels. The cover plate has two recesses: a larger rear opening for the solids and a smaller front opening for the urine separator. The easiest way is to transfer the dimensions of the separator directly onto the wood with a pen before cutting out with the jigsaw.
- Glue and screw the housing. Connect the side walls to the floor using angles or tenon joints, additionally glue the edges for stability. Make sure that the insides are smooth and without edges that could later catch substrate.
- Install urine separator. Place the separator in the front recess and seal it all around with silicone so that no urine runs into the inside of the housing. Run a flexible hose from the separator drain connection down to the canister. Important: The hose should have a slight slope so that the urine flows away reliably and nothing builds up.
- Position canisters and solids containers. Install a small holder or compartment for the urine canister so that it doesn't slip while driving. The solids bucket should remain loosely removable so that you can simply pull it out to empty it.
- Install ventilation (optional, but recommended). Drill a small hole in the back wall and insert a 12-volt fan there that vents to the outside via a hose. This further reduces residual moisture in the solids container and ensures an even more odorless result.
- Assemble the lid and seat. Screw the toilet seat onto the cover plate so that it neatly covers both openings. A lid with a good fit is crucial to reliably seal in odors even when closed.
- Seal the surface. Treat the entire wooden housing with a moisture-resistant varnish or clear varnish. This protects against splashes and makes later cleaning much easier.
Care and use in everyday life
Before using it for the first time, put a layer of substrate in the solids container. After each “big business” you sprinkle a handful of dry material over it – this binds moisture and reliably holds back odors. The urine canister should be emptied regularly, ideally every two to three days, depending on the number of people and the size of the canister. As mentioned, the solids container can remain standing for a significantly longer period of time and is then disposed of with household waste, a composting toilet station or - with appropriate post-composting - in your own garden.
Conclusion
A dry separation toilet is more than just a trend among vanlifers: it solves the practical problems of the classic camping toilet in an elegant way - less chemicals, less smell, less water consumption and more independence from disposal stations. With a little craftsmanship and a weekend of time, the system can be built to fit your own camper. Once you've made the switch, you rarely want to go back to the chemical toilet - and for good reason.
See you soon and always have a good trip,
your Tussy 💛